In Vino Veritas

Imagine, if you will, hunting a tyrannosaurus rex with a Nerf gun.

There you are sitting in a tree you climbed, scoping for the illusive T-Rex. There are myriad raptors in the jungle doing their thing, but you’re holding out for the big guy. After hours of waiting, a cacophony of sound erupts from the floor below. Dinosaurs were running from something, and they were running fast. Tremors start shaking the tree, and they’re getting bigger. It’s heading right for you! You see trees getting pushed aside, and your heart is racing like a maniac.

Then POW! You are staring face to face with a giant eyeball. It pauses just long enough for you to level off your Nerf rifle and fire…

*Boink*

That’s about what it’s like trying to know everything there is to know about Italian wine. With over 350 government approved varietals for producing wine and more than a million vineyards, it comes in as the largest wine producing region in the world. The island of Sicilia alone produces more wine than all of Australia. There are 20 main wine regions, over 330 DOCs, and 73 DOCGs.

Side note: DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata which are similar to our AVAs American Viticultural Areas. The DOCG adds ‘e Garantita’ to the title, which means it’s guaranteed to follow very particular wine rules. They must also be a historically significant wine region.

That’s insane…

Seriously if I had to choose between trying to memorize all of that or hunting a T-Rex with a Nerf rifle. I would sling that rifle over my back and start hiking to the jungle (at least then I’d get to see a T-Rex for a hot second).

That said, right now I’m only going to go over the six DOCGs from Toscana (in American speak it’s Tuscany, and yes I said 7 DOCGs in the title).  Toscana is located in the northeast of Italy, below the lip of the boot. Liguria is to the west, Emilia-Romagna to the north, Marche to the east, Umbria to the southeast, and Lazio to the south.

In alphabetical order:

Brunello di Montalcino is a red made from Sangiovese Grosso, which is a larger grape clone of Sangiovese. The climate is much drier and hotter than the Chianti region to the north. This gives Brunellos their muscle. The DOCG law requires a minimum of two years in oak and 4 months aging in the bottle and a total of 4 years altogether (Riserva wines need a minimum of 6 months in bottle with 5 years total age).

They are complex full bodied, tannic wines with blackberry, black cherry, and plum both in the palate and the aromatics.

Carmignano is a red wine region just a short distance from Florence that uses many varietals. The DOCG law requires a minimum of 50% Sangiovese, but then you have a variety of grapes to choose from for the other 50%, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo Nero and the Blanco version as well to name a few. A minimum of two years before release with 8 months barrel age (12 for Riserva).

Because of the wide range of grape blending options the finished product varies quite a bit, but you should be able to pick out some strawberry and spice on the palate.

Chianti is what most people think of first when they consider Italian wine. Southeast of Carmignano and north of Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti is in the heart of Toscana. With a minimum of 75% Sangiovese, it can also be blended with other approved grape varietals such as Canaiolo Nero, Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia del Chianti. Only since 1995 has Chianti been allowed to use 100% Sangiovese if they so desire. About a year minimum age with two on the Riserva, allows Chianti producers to make young wine with a very wide range of quality.

Anywhere from light to full bodied, fruit forward to lean and acid driven, Chianti is a varied wine. Generally one will find strawberry and floral components on the nose, with strawberry, plum and spice on the palate.

Chianti Classico is Chianti’s elitist brother. The Classico region lies in the middle of Chianti, and has stricter rules than Chianti. A minimum of 80% Sangiovese is required, and an extra three months age on the Riserva. The Chianti Classico Consorzio (consortium) even has specific ‘suggestions’ on how you should store and consume your wine.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is both the region and the white grape varietal used, with up to 10% of approved non-aromatic white wine added. It is located west of Chianti Classico. The Riserva requires a minimum of 16 months age which is atypical of white wines.

Dry and crisp it exhibits citrus, mineral, and a hint of bitterness on the finish.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is located east of Montalcino, and requires a minimum of 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo gentile as the locals call this particular clone). If it’s a Riserva then 3 years of aging is required, two if it’s not. They have been celebrated as some of Toscana’s best wine, and yet typically cost half as much as Brunello.

Like Brunello, it has dark cherry and plum in the aromas and the palate as well as firm tannins. Given the tannins and the strong acid component, these wines can lay down for quite some time.

And just for kicks I’ve included Wikipedia’s list of Italian grape varieties (T-Rex hunting)

Grape                                          Color    Region